Thanks. I’ll swap it around and try again.
Sounds smooth again after switching it around. It defies belief!
No, it’s only experience.
All this talk about swapping the fuses in the devices and maybe causing warranty/safety issues. Why not just change the 13 amp fuse in the plug of the the power cord?
Anyone tried this instead of the internal fuses and had similar positive results?
In my experience, the fuses will sound much better after a few weeks. I was a skeptic but now I would not go without them.
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Agreed.
I had quite a lovely listening session last night after changing the orientation of the fuse.
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Just an update to say that the noticable affect of the fuse is in the area of clarity hence my complaint of additional percieved “brightness” while the fuse “burns in”.
More detail can definitely be heard from the DAC but the Bartok is already very resolving in my opinion.
That appears to be the main improvement anyway for those curious of the affect (in my opinion).
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I constantly upgrade fuses as SR releases new! improved! versions (clever SR!).
I upgraded from orange to purple on my Vivaldi clock/Apex dac/disc player when SR came out with an offer of 3 for the price of 2. Improvement of abt 5% over orange (in itself already a big improvement over blue!) which is absolutely HUGE for High End gear (and the “modest” outlay compared to the price of the equipment). The purple fuse is very directional, just insert it so that it sounds more cavernous and analytical, not necessarily better (directionality is very obvious: to me the fuse sounded frankly unpleasant at first listen but I kept faith). Then, cook for abt 200-300 hours (shortcut: put disc player sotto voce on continuous play for days on end, use Nordost burn-in disc repeatedly over couple of weeks). Magic!
My take: on most high-end equipment, go directly to purple to dramatically improve performance and save on the upgrade money
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Hi, I’m using HiFi-Tuning Fuses | Supreme³ Silver.
Does anyone have any idea what the correct verse is? Thank you.
I install the master fuse more or less 30 days ago in my Bartók apex. It’s not night and day but i clearly ear the diference, like the sound feels more right now.
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It is most important that you smear Marmite on the barrel of the fuse. It must not touch the contacts at each end.
Do not use Vegimite. That has a more “men at work” sound which is an acquired taste.
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I now have SR purple fuses in my DAC, preamp and power amp. Maybe later I can try more in the transport and fieldcoil power supply.
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I haven’t (yet) ventured down the fuse ‘rabbit hole’…
Please let me know your impressions of your system SQ with the SR Purple Fuses compared to the SQ prior to installing them.
I would say the intensity seems turned up. You can hear more of the character of the system and it increases those aspects of the component that you already know. It might be because my system is already strong in a very direct and dynamic character that this is amplified along with detail, soundstaging. The end result is more involvement. I hope this helps.
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Interesting…
Thank you.
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I am not against the idea that fuses can make a difference. However experience has shown that the result can vary from component to component. Moreover I have never seen any objective test that supports any of this.
What I am sceptical about are the prices sought by some manufacturers. There are only three parts of a fuse. A pair of end caps, a glass ( or other) envelope tube and a thin conductor. Yes, you can damp the tube but that is not costly ( sand is often used). What is changed to justify £191 and not, say, £20? Do the manufacturers tell us? No - I wonder why?
NB: I do use aftermarket fuses. They are the same as standard fuses except the end caps are plated with silver. Sound great, only a relatively mall additional cost compared with other “audiophile” ones but, sorry, NLA.
I ordered a Synergistic Research MASTER Quantum Fuse (small, 5x20mm (0.75”) Slow (T)/1A and finally had the opportunity to put it in my dCS Rossini Apex DAC & it blew at powering on. When I contacted SR at HQ, Mr. “AK” mentioned dCS devices are notoriously prone to blow recommended factory fuse ratings and suggested he replace it with a 1.25A fuse. Similar instances he encountered as I, had been the correct path to take (his opinion).
I elected to return the blown fuse for a full refund and reinserted the stock fuse with no issues.
Glad I did.
I was talking to an amplifier manufacturer and he informed me to be aware of these so called “high end replacement fuses”. He was doing repair work on an amplifier (not power related) and when he inspected the “extremely expensive” fuse in the amplifier - it had melted yet maintained a metallic connection which allowed the amplifier to be turned on. He was in total amazement especially realizing this could have resulted in personal shock or worse yet, an unattended “fire.”
With those two instances noted; I’m not a fan of any “so called high quality” replacement fuses – I’ll spend that money on either isolation tweaks, put it towards a better cable or better yet – music.
Best to all,
Bob
On my Rossini I had a blue, than a purple and actually a master fuse. Névrose had any problem, and listening is amazing.
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You raise important points. I decided to try these at what are extremely high prices compared to standard fuses. Compared to the equipment though, the additional cost is relatively low. I also wonder what justifies hyperbolic prices, but so far I do seem to like what the fuses bring me. Purple level is about as far as I am prepared to go pricewise.
We have a rude word in British English for such advice.I shall not use it even though I want to. There is no evidence whatsoever that their products are inclined to blow fuses. In 26 years here are the number of fuses I have blown:
That’s the total 
As I know you understand, replacing fuses with incorrect values is improper and can be dangerous. I expect that he simply mis-spoke and when he suggested a 1.25 amp fuse he simply meant " I am out of stock of 1amp".
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