Fuse upgrade recommendation for Rossini?

This is a general question about which upgraded fuse to use in a Rossini and other pieces of equipment. I know the upgraded fuse must match the same specs as the stock fuse.

Using the Analogue Seduction website I ordered this HiFi Tuning fuse for the Rossini, https://www.analogueseduction.net/fuses/TS1.html. I noticed they sell many different types of fuses from Isoclean, SR and others. The HiFi Tuning fuse has about 75 hours of break in and I’m happy with the results, but I’m wondering if any of you Rossini owners have found a better fuse to use.

Same question for power amps. I have a Gryphon Antileon Evo and it uses 5 fuses.

  • two for the main power which are 10A H
  • one 1A T The manual doesn’t say what this is used for
  • one 1A F protection system fuse
  • one 400mA T - AC power up system

I have an Audio Research Ref 5 SE preamp uses a single Busman MDQ 5A. Any suggestions here?

With the stock fuses, the system leans toward the dark side, which isn’t an issue as I prefer this vs. too bright a system.

Thanks, Brian …

I am a new dCS Bartók owner, so please forgive me asking this question…Can a fuse affect the way a Rossini, or any other component sounds?

The main thing to watch out for is whether or not you can actually obtain the correct value. For the Rossini this is 20 x 50mm T1AL. Many of the trick fuse manufacturers will offer the size and the power rating specs but not disclose the other factors ( T = slow acting L = low breaking capacity). Not to put too fine a point on it if you use a fuse of incorrect specification you may end up waving your warranty goodbye. Repair costs are commensurate with the price of the dCS component BTW.

On the whole my experience is that specifically in a dCS context at best expensive fuses may do no harm. In other contexts, for example, a13 amp equivalent for power plugs ( only of relevance to us Brits) may be beneficial or not depending on the voicing of the entire system . But in all cases that aspect of voicing should the fuses change the sound makes general recommendations unreliable.

Frankly some of the prices charged seem totally ludicrous ( $120 for a 1 Amp fuse?) and must involve some form of magic thought as no technical justification seems to be available.

My opinion would be to buy some more music instead but it is your money after all and you are free to dispose of it as you wish.

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David, see my above response. Depending upon the component , yes fuses can change the sound. However does change always = better?. And is the level of improvement commensurate with the cost of the fuse?

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I assume the theory with changing fuses is fuse, by virtue of the way it works (heating a wire until the wire fails at a certain current) the fuse in a natural ‘bottle-neck’ to the current. A ‘better’ fuse would, presumably, present a reduced load in normal operation? Would a better solution instead be to replace the old fashioned concept of burning a wire out for a proper electronic current limiter?

An interesting point about an electronic alternative though there is no guarantee that it would necessarily offer a better sound. As I understand what little information there is about audiophile fuses is that they may deal with vibration by e.g. filling the fuse tube with a substance and with (possibly) improved general construction. They may claim some benefit from using differing metals or alloys for the wire itself and for the end caps.

Here’s an interesting article on upgraded fuses, https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/fuses-do-affect-sound-the-question-is-how-much.50/

The article aligns with Pete’s mention about fuses vibrating. Pete may have said it best, ‘a different sound doesn’t always mean better’.

Thanks everyone.

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I’m going to point you to a comment that I made on the same topic some time ago:


wouldn’t dream of changing to anything other than the dCS fuse specs.

I went through the fuse phase for a while, primarily when I first went to Decware amps and then when I went with PS Audio gear. What a waste of time. I tried Synergistic and some other ultra-unobtanium brand, and then I even tried the improves-your-sex-life-also variants. The time I wasted in effect trying to de-engineer quality equipment instead of just listening to music is time I can never get back. More power to those who truly hear a difference.


Thanks Pete :+1:

Thanks Greg. Great point about just enjoying the music.

Yeah, well, I think this is all part of how one views this hobby, and that view can change over time as well. Back when I was building my own tone arms out of balsa, electrostatic speakers from sheet metal, etc., all that time not listening to music, though maybe on headphones or as background, seemed to give me a great deal of pleasure. Now, whether it’s cables or fuses or switches, no matter the outcome, the effort (45kg amps, again!?) and lost time just don’t seem to deliver the utils that music and family time do. To each his own. I would never tell another human how to spend their time or money, but FWIW, with fuses, I never heard a difference worth paying for.

Does anyone remember when loudspeakers used to come with fuses in the back? ISTR my Mission 700s’ did. The perceived wisdom at the time was to chop a bit off a 6" nail to substitute for the fuse.

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Maggies still use fuses for their ribbon tweeter and mid-range panel.

I do remember those days now that you mention it. Ah, “the good old days.”

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