DCS Bartok 100V > 230V

Hello, I have a 100 volt DCS Bartok, I moved to another country and brought it with me, here the voltage is 230 volts, is it possible to convert the unit to this voltage? Please help me.


If you can let us know what territory you are in then I can get you in touch with the distributor for your area who will be able to perform the voltage change for you - please be aware that setting the voltage is not an end-user procedure as it requires the unit to be opened AND the serial number plate must be updated to reflect the voltage change otherwise the unit will be incorrectly labelled.

Best regards

Phil Harris

Hi , Russia

If you contact Qvinta Audio - [email protected] - they will be able to help you.

I hope that helps.

Yes, definitely not an end-user procedure…

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:shushing_face: Wall of shame for me :smile:
After being quoted quite a ridiculous amount for original packaging which I had even accepted I was not even allowed to purchase that via the US distributor channel when they found out the unit would be headed to Europe afterwards.
So I would have had to contact a local dealer to order the original packaging and send it to the US?!

Forgive me if I was done with this when the unit came in and I just wanted to listen. I did end up getting custom packaging made for 1/13th (!) of the dCS price. I’m sorry but cardboard and foam just don’t need to be that expensive.

I am curious what the dealer fee would be for this service, I would like to have a correct one but I guess a dCS back plate also needs to get the - at least - 5x more expensive distributor-dealer markup before ending up on my unit.

I would advise anyone to have voltage conversion done for safety reasons though. Being an engineer I took the risk of doing it myself and now do not have the matching backplate which does annoy me a little bit. Guess I will be talking to a nearby dealer about that.

I don’t think you would need to send it to the US ( dCS is a UK company in any case). Your local authorised dealer or distributor would carry this out.

Haha, no shame at all @August!

The OP asked the question, clearly implying that they wouldn’t be confident performing the procedure themselves (Dunning-Kruger notwithstanding I think with things like this the vast majority either know they know how to or know they don’t know how to) so for them and the vast majority of others Phil’s response was of course the correct one.

Your case was different (and your choice was perfectly rational IMO) in the light of two factors:

  • You are an EE, perfectly capable of figuring out how to change the voltage and knowing that this means the label on the back plate should be changed
  • Your unit was purchased used and was out of warranty anyway

It was Phil’s implication that changing the label was what makes this “not an end user procedure” that provoked my slightly tongue-in-cheek response, no criticism of you was implied.

For me the incorrect font on your DIY voltage label is a badge of honor! :medal_sports:

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No offense taken. No EE here but a ME, still quite comfortable and taking pride in doing as much as I can myself. Be it changing a timing belt or brakes on a car or installing solar panels, a heat pump, a tile floor and new kitchen in my house.
Just a little frustration about how some things work with distribution channels. If a unit is in the US without a box, for me it makes the most sense to contact the US distributor to arrange a box. What I do with it afterwards and that I choose to ship it somewhere else in the world is my business. I’m probably not the average customer anyways so I take my own approach to doing things.

Shame, well I guess that’s the next best thing :wink:

Hi @struts001

There are discussions that as a manufacturer we can’t get into but as soon as something involves opening a unit then it’s not an end user procedure - there are no end-user-serviceable parts or end-user adjustments inside our units - but one of the most obvious issues is if the voltage plate isn’t updated when a voltage change takes place then at some point in the future you can pretty much guarantee it’s going to end up getting plugged into the wrong voltage supply and at best not work and at worst the magic smoke gets let out.


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I saw a post on another forum claiming that dCS magic smoke is on sale on Alibaba, although someone else claimed it was clearly not the genuine article as it smelt “slightly fishy”. I would of course never advocate reloading with after-market magic smoke of questionable provenance!

Someone did try to use this but unfortunately it’s not compatible - it’s too course - and it blocks up the infinity matter injectors in the RingDAC…