Recently I read on a local audio forum about isolating audio equipment using a WiFi bridge (not switch, not router, not AP). I just had one at home - Linksys WET610N. I disconnected the 10m ehernet cable from the provider’s router (Optical provider cable come to the apartments, to this router) and now I use the cable from the Bartok box, which connects this WiFi Bridge and my Bartok. I’m not sure what has become better, except for very subtle nuances, later I want to try a cable and a linear power supply for Linksys.
OR… you could do as I have done - I put the little Network Isolator MED MI 1005 just before my dCS Network Bridge and connected it to NWB with 25 cm of cat 6 cable from Meicord. Works like a charm and needs no PSU of any kind. And I could clearly hear the benefits.
You can read more at https://baaske-medical.com/isolation/ethernet-isolation/
This looks like the Galvanic isolation that several Chord DAC’s (DAVE & TT2) have built in for USB input. I would not be surprised if the dCS streaming boards have something like this already incorporated?
Well, Ethernet is already galvanically isolated. There is some modest data that suggests medical grade isolators can improve on that isolation, but whether that is audible might depend on one’s system. I tried these before going all in on fiber isolation, and did not perceive any differences in my system. I’m a big fan of isolation generally, but depending on the audible differences one thinks one hears, the next stage of inquiry should be asking what it is in one’s system that something f like this is “fixing.”
Good reference information, thanks.
Although I’m late to the game, I do have a some questions that someone with the expertise of this group may be able to answer:
-
Ubiquiti products were mentioned. I have a Ubiquity switch with a SFP port. I’m presuming that I could output from the switch’s SFP port to a SFP converter like the Trendnet or TPLink ones mentioned. Then plug my audio room’s in-wall 60’ Supra CAT 8 Ethernet cable into the SFP convertor. Is that all that would be needed? BTW, un-shielded CAT cable has been mentioned many times in this forum. The Supra CAT 8 is shielded. But if I plug an un-shielded CAT 5e (like the Belden Catsnake) into the CAT 8’s wallplate/keystone, is that final 5e run to my Rossini then considered as unshielded?
-
If my SFP is on a circuit separated from my audio room’s dedicated circuits, would a better power supply for the SFP be needed?
-
I have a 7.5 Volt Linear Power supply on hand. Would it be safe use it to drive a SFP with a 5 volt input? That is, would the plus 2.5 Volts of my on-hand LPS damage the SFP?
Yes. Just be sure to purchase a pair of matched SFPs that are confirmed compatible with both your Ubiquity switch and whichever Media converter you buy.
Yes.
I don’t quite follow, but it’s a good idea to have good PSU for the Media Convert thats closest to your Rossini’s Ethernet port.
You need to look at the Voltage/Power requirement specs of whatever Media converter you get. It would specify the voltage limits and minimum total current draw (e.g. 1.5 Amps) required inclusive of an SFP plugged into the unit.
1 Like
Thanks for the assistance Anupc. The application of a noise elimination moat (if you will) using fiber, appears to logically make sense and is an inexpensive endeavor.
In my specific application, I don’t need a PAIR of SFP’s, do I?
That is, I would plug 1 (ONE) cable like this Multimode Duplex Fiber Optic Cable (62.5/125) into my Ubiquiti US-16-150W switch’s SFP ports [either port 1 or 2?]. The other end of that cable would be inserted into a SFP like a TP-Link or Trendnet (previously referenced in this thread). Then the (IT-closet) end of my in-wall CAT 8 cable (to my audio room) would be plugged into the other end of the SFP transceiver. Thus, because I’m coming out of my switch with a fiber signal, I would need ONLY 1 (one) fiber cable (like the one above) and ONLY 1 (one) SFP transceiver. Have I got it correct?
If the above 1 (one) fiber cable and 1 (one) SFP is correct (if I’m coming out of the switch with fiber), would there be any benefit to NOT coming out of my switch with fiber? But simply sticking with the way it now is: Ethernet to the audio room and then make the change to fiber-and- back-to-Ethernet in the audio room, rather than in my IT closet (at the Switch)?
Making the change in the audio room (rather than in my IT closet) would mean that I would insert 2 (two) SFP’s in the audio room – i.e. 1 (one) SFP to switch Ethernet to Fiber and then a 2nd. SFP to switch Fiber back to Ethernet.
However, it would seem more economical and equally effective to come out of the Ubiquiti switch’s SFP Port (in my IT closet) with fiber and therein utilize ONLY 1 (ONE) SFP to make the change from fiber to the Ethernet (by inserting the cable already running back to my audio room into that ONE SFP transceiver). Or would it?
That is often easier. For my speaker system room, I ran fiber straight out of the switch for both the Optical Rendu and the EtherRegen.
Thanks Greg, that then sounds like a plan. That is, use my Ubiquiti switch’s SFP port and then just one SFP transceiver. Keeping it all in the IT closet is as you said: “easier” and for me, less than having 2-SFP’s and cable spices (if you will) being visually obtrusive in the audio room.
Cheers, to everyone who contributed to this thread. I had initially read about this sort of isolation on the Audiophile Style forum. But never implemented it. Having input from dCS owners adds gravitas to the premise.
I’m especially happy to hear that by plugging an un-shielded cable into the Keystone in my audio room that terminates an in wall shielded Supra CAT 8 cable, will provide the un-shielded input that dCS’s Andrew (as well as others) have suggested for dCS DAC’s like my Roissini.
I also benefited from several suggestions made, by purchasing a Belden Cat Snake Un-Shielded 5e Cable direct from DesignaCable. They’re inexpensive, Belden wire and well worth a try!
2 Likes
You do need a pair. Just to be clear on terminology, SFPs are these things;
The two SFP Ports on your Ubiquit Switch are Empty cages into which you plug selected SFPs, and the other SFP into your Media converter’s SFP cage. And you interconnect the two SFPs with fiber.
Here’s what a fiber pair plugged into an SFP, plugged into the SFP cage on a board looks like;
So, it’ll be;
Ubiqiti[SFP] —> fibre —> [SFP]Media Converter —> Ethernet CAT5E —> Rossini Ethernet port
3 Likes
Oh my Anupc, I didn’t know the switch’s slot was empty and had to have a module installed. Now I get it 
Again, thanks for the assistance!!! I’m having home theater installers out in a few weeks and because I’m disabled, my plan was to have them install the SFP (now SFP’s) and cable. Now, I will be able to have the proper hardware on hand!
2 Likes
It appears that this Trendnet Media Converter Module has the SFP already installed TRENDnet 100/1000Base-T to SFP Fiber Media Converter, Fiber to Ethernet Converter, RJ-45,Multi(SX) or Single-Mode(LX) . If otherwise, please advise.
Would there be a difference in output that could be heard, between the above Trendnet Module and this TPlink one: TP-Link Gigabit SFP to RJ45 Fiber Media Converter | Fiber to Ethernet Converter | 10/100/1000Mbps RJ45 Port to 1000Base-SX/LX SFP Slot Supporting MiniGBIC Modules ? Or sonicaly speaking, would you assume them to be interchangeable?
How about fiber, would this be satisfactory 1 Meter Multimode Duplex Fiber Optic Cable (62.5/125) - LC to LC - Orange , or would another be recommended?
Amazon offers bundles that includes the Media Convert and a pair of SFPs, but I’d recommend getting a pair of SPFs that are guaranteed compatible with your Ubiquiti Switch instead, like these UF-MM-1G.
Media Converters are generally less fussy, so the UF-MM-1G should work fine in a TrendNet or a TP-Link.
No. Contrary to some wild claims on Audiophilestyles, you will not hear any differences in Media Converters or SPFs; both are digital component built around very tight technical specifications with guaranteed error-free transmission bit rates and fixed latency. 
However, as mentioned elsewhere in this thread, it’s a good idea to get a good linear power supply unit for the Media Converter.
The UF-MM-1G is an 850nm multimode SFP. So, yes, that Duplex multimode fibre should be just fine. Don’t skimp on the length though, have enough to let the fibre hang loose 
1 Like
Yep, I had planned to. But thanks for the reminder.
I will probably plug the LPS into my Home Theater’s Furman conditioner which will be near the Ubiquiti switch – good/bad/neutral idea? If not directly into the Furman, then it would have to be plugged into the outlet the Furman is plugged into.
Speaking of Linear Power Supply’s (LPS’s), I know of several costly ones, but has anyone had experience with reasonably priced ones? Or better yet, which ones have you guys had good luck using in this application?
Good idea. You won’t need a fancy expensive LPSU, just one that doesn’t put crap back into your AC mains. 
I totally agree, but finding the one “that doesn’t put crap back into your AC mains” is the trick and question.
Measurements can obviously be done to LPSU’s as the above linked thread has done. But I wonder how measurements simply performed on the units, have a bearing on what perhaps they insert back into the mains? As everything in this hobby, listening is first, foremost and lastly my concern, regardless of measurements. Must one measure and then listen to the LPSU’s, to make the determination of whether they’re putting crap back into the mains?
The testing done here: “Power Supply (8+) Group Test, LPS and SMPS” depicts the iFi power wall wart as measuring the best of the bunch and nearly as well as the control unit which was a battery. Yet, I’ve read posts bashing the iFi power unit. So, how does one find a LPSU that doesn’t put crap back into the mains, which is what I believe we’re all seeking?
Try not to drive yourself crazy. There are actually very good switching power supplies, and I have read more than one engineer’s opinion that a switching supply can outperform a linear, and that like most things, success is found in the details and the execution. One went so far as to say that the audiophile obsession with LPS over SPS is flat-out wrong. One can easily spend thousands of dollars on audiophile power supplies designed to do nothing more than supply 12VDC. I personally think that’s nuts. OTOH, I have spent hundreds of dollars on multiple power supplies from Plixir, Keces, and HDPlex. The HDPlex went up in smoke. Never again. Both the Plixir and Keces have been very reliable and well-made. Neither puts grunge back into my system. But then, both are also plugged into my Torus power unit or a PS Audio regenerator. So, there’s additional protection. One of the nice things about the Keces is that some of their units come with an additional 5V/1A USB outlet. That is sometimes enough for things like a GigaFoil or FMC. So, if you have a need for more than one DC line, you could get the Keces 2-rail, at whatever voltages you need, and have the third (USB) outlet as well. I have a Keces that powers my Roon Nucleus+, an EtherRegen, and a GigaFoil 4. Very convenient and clean.
4 Likes
I have the same config as Greg (no accident) — one Keces P8 supplying 19V to a Nucleus+, 5V to a GigaFoil and 12V to an EtherRegen. Works perfectly.
The P8 is even 115/60Hz to 230/50Hz switchable, so it’ll come with me to New Zealand one day. Nice kit.
1 Like
Too late: Hi, my name is Mike, I am an audiophile; I already drive myself crazy 
Like far too many things in this hobby, I’m seeking an inexpensive, but superb power supply – albeit a SPS or LPS. One that won’t throw more noise back-in, than it removes. How the heck can I find that? Which one would that be?
I too have read based on design, that a SPS can perform as well or better than an LPS. So, I’m in concurrence. However, why throw money at a problem not knowing if if will solve it, or worse, create another, noise flowing back-in problem?
I’ve heard of all of the power supplies you mentioned. Thanks for referencing them and bringing them to my attention again.
For around $50.00, my wallet, wants the iFi wall wart to be a panacea. But operating under the premise you get what you pay for, that want gives me pause.
I suppose at the end of the day, all I can do, is throw a dart at several power supplies and pull the plug on one. If anyone has had experience with the iFi or something less than $300 or so, please chime in.