holeee moley - stunned. beautiful rig
Oh yes, additional heatsinking. That too!
How did you get into Kharmas to begin with @Anupc, what’s the backstory?
I hear good things about Allnic. Do you have any remarks you could make compared to other amps you tried?
Curiosity got the better of me after reading Johnathan Valin’s cover review of the Kharma Exquisites in The Absolute Sound in 2000.
Took me awhile to get to properly audition them. Paired with Tenor’s original 75 Watt OTL monoblocs, I had never heard a more realistic sounding reproduction of a Piano ever. Been with them ever since
Yes, I am learning how to (really) listen to the piano from my friend T. To “listen in” a system he plays one of the variations on Twinkle, Twinkle from a disc of Johan Westre playing Mozart (which he recorded), and one of the variations from the 1981 Gould Goldbergs and that tells him pretty much everything he needs to know. I am very, very slowly learning the art.
These doorstops are full off magnetic scrap metal, I would not use them on electronics.
What a beast! Received transport from the US, first performed voltage conversion and now warming up.
Congrats @August! Nice catch…
Did you also have to change the fuse for a different value ?
Afaik the fuse is the same regardless of the voltage setting which is done on the power board inside. I looked it up in the manual to be sure.
Over the old one please!
Double check that August. The fuse is usually the first thing the circuit passes through. It should (I am guessing) be the same value as the one in your DAC. T1A iirc?
Of course it will work with a US fuse, it just won’t be doing its job as it will allow twice the current through before blowing.
Ok no problems if you checked.
what do you use for streaming? (or do you play discs only)?
Nothing currently. I used a network bridge before which worked well, but I sold that. Will be looking for a Vivaldi upsampler, but might need to have some in-between solution before that will happen.
Thanks! Let us know what you’ll buy in-between!!
It says T1A both on the unit and in the manual. No mention of different values for other voltages.
I know this is different to a lot of other devices Ohms law and such, but I guess this is ok.
Will try to print smaller and stick it over the old denomination so you can sleep better
T1A is the one, you’re fine. For some reason I expected them to ship with T2A in the US but I guess there is no need, even 110W is over-specified.