Does mains supply cable size really matter?

I installed a 10mm T&E cable for the dedicated Radial circuit, with an unswitched double socket for my music system.
The 18th Edition qualified Electrician installed the Consumer Unit and RCBO. (Residual Current Breaker with Overcurrent Protection) All the above was tested and the relevant certificate was issued.

Typical, :roll_eyes: we have decided to move house, so will be starting a fresh!
When I get round to installing the new dedicated power supply, is there any point in doing it in 10mm, as I did previously? Or, would 6mm or even 4mm cable suffice? :thinking:

To be absolutely honest, I couldn’t notice any difference, between using the house 2.5 Ring Main and the 10mm Radial.

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There are many myths in the audio world and cable size sometimes seems to feature.

The correct size may be calculated from the total power ( amps) that your equipment may draw. This is shown in each component’s user manual for dCS equipment and I daresay similar specs are quoted for the rest of your active components,

See this:

Aside from power handling, a resulting low impedance may also be desired. Very large power amplifiers e.g. some of the of the large D’Agostino ones may particularly benefit.

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In a prior home. My system was in the unfinished basement. We rewired the basement with thicker gauge cable when I built out the listening room and it made a difference.

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Thanks Lee…What size cable did you use?

Thanks Pete…I am ok with working out the CCC, for my system components, as I did when I installed the kitchen Radial in 4mm, rather than the usual 2.5 ring main, as we use Air fryers and other current guzzling appliances. (The oven and hob were put on a 6mm cable)

I was kind of asking if the system SQ would benefit from a larger cable?
As I mentioned, I personally couldn’t hear any difference using the house 2.5 vs my dedicated 10mm Radial. Or, was I missing something? :thinking:

I wonder if a phone call to Mike Lister at Puritan Audio for advice may help ? A larger cable might help in circumstances requiring a very low impedance supply but that may not be applicable for you.

In the UK for audio we usually want to avoid our ( normal) ring main system and the junk that enters the mains form other devices connected to it ( TVs, fridges etc).

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If you primarily listen in a smaller room with an able amplifier and efficient speakers and your listening level isnt demanding (loud) and your music tastes leans toward pop id say smaller cables are sufficient. If any or all of these criteria are loaded, you start to see more benefit it larger gage wires imho

I ran 2 separately lines, one single 10mm, and a ring of 2 x 2.5mm. Both from a separate fuse box, and can’t tell any difference at all.

The biggest difference came from putting a balanced supply in feeding both. They dont cost much at all and don’t interfere with the sound.

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Pink Floyd, The Who…Need I say more? :laughing:

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Explain please Duncan…

You back from your hols, or bored? :laughing:

Sitting in the sun outside the motorhome after a very long walk with the dogs.

Balanced power supply like the airlink I have, gives 110 volts down the live and natural. This means any unwanted noise gets cancelled out automatically by each other. Studios and hospitals use Balanced supplies on anything that’s needs a very clean power supply.

You just need to make sure you have double the output as minimum from the Balanced supply to make sure you don’t hinder dynamics. So basically add up all the transformer sizes, etc. But about £650 will get you one big enough and then just needs wiring in by an electrician.

My opinion again i get your theme… i have 1400wpc into 4 ohms with 150lb space heater class a amps into big wilson speakers at 95% efficiency. The room is acoustically engineered and treated. Volume is about 6000 cf i’m using 30 amp dedicated feeds. With the who and pf the demand potential is there dependent upon your room size amp capacity and design and speaker efficiency. Id say if you dont hear the music “ get thin” on soaring lead solos by gilmore on comfortably numb for example your cable size is likely sufficient. :joy:

I believe we went from 12 gauge to 10 gauge.

Not only gauge can matter, but type too. Do make sure that you use what’s allowed in your country according to code. 10mm2 seems excessive, I have used 4 or 6 but be sure it fits.

You could use Belden, Furutech or others. As @PAR said ask advice from Puritan, he would give a sensible answer.

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Remember that comparing 110V wiring to 230V is not apples-to-apples. The former is essentially carrying twice the current.

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BASEC twin & earth.

BASEC cables are electrical cables that have been independently tested and certified by the British Approvals Service for Cables (BASEC)

As I said, different countries different codes. Some countries might not allow more exotic cables. It is a safety and insurance issue. And there is the voltage issue that Andrew mentioned. 10mm2 seems excessive for 220-240V is what I should have said.

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10mm certainly is very excessive for a hifi system, but its not used for volts, its more for amps that going to get pulled down it. That’s why you only really see 10mm being used on done cookers / hobs, showers and car chargers.

Nothing wrong using it on a hifi supply, but as said probably a complete waste of time over 2.5mm.

But if I ever want to put an induction hob on my top shelf of the hifi rack, I am sorted with power.:joy:

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I use water in my shower, never occurred to me to try electricity!

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:smiley: will get you into that electric boogie :wink: to be fair to Dunc here who is in that line of business, there are things called tankless boilers that people use to get hot water without using gas or other heaters.