Ross is a great guy. Very helpful.
Spoke with Ross several times back in the day. He agreed the problem was DC offset and felt the only solution was to purchase a DC offset filter… He suggested a rather inexpensive one (I cannot remember the name) however some online sleuthing indicated it only worked half the time.
I remember having a conversation with my old friend Chris Koster (former Naim USA co-owner) who suggested a newish UK company who were making power distribution blocks (Puritan?) which also incorporated circuitry for DC offset . I spoke with the importer who tried to upsell me so I never pursued the issue again.
This is not an uncommon problem as just about everything in your house can inject DC offset into the line. .
PS brought my smaller Torus over to my brother’s house - no buzz. He is lucky.
Probably not of much interest but I had a DC offset hum with my Karan KAS 600 amp and it was addressed with a Vertex AQ Aneto device, which is specifically designed for that purpose.
Vertex AQ became Quiescent and no longer make the Aneto, but it does occasionally come up second hand.
My latest Karan amp (POWERa) has power conditioning, including DC Offset treatment, built in (but defeatable via a switch on the back) so it’s no longer an issue for me.
Cheers, Mike.
I have had a dialogue with the guy who owns the company and have to say that he was very impressive and very helpful. Good reviews over here too. Unfortunately my limitations of space prevented me from going further but I have noted over the past month or so that he has been taken on by a couple of good dealers here in the UK.
I completely understand your point about the importer trying to upsell you but the product itself did strike me as a sensible contender.
Do you plug your Vivaldi in the wall or use filters of some sort? Does anyone use true parallel filters? Thanks.
I guess that is addressed to me.
I suspect that the right conditioner/distributor may benefit something. I have tried items many years ago but that was with systems now long past. However at that time I found that what I tried had what became almost predictable. My first reaction being highly positive but as I got used to the conditioner(s) I found colourations; bass and low treble ( ringing?) giving an initial illusion of better bass and detail. So all I can conclude is not that conditioners do not work but that what I tried were not the right ones for me.
Nowadays my system is physically large and uses all of the floor space I have available so adding anything is not practical.
My wall power supply is dedicated to the audio system from its own consumer unit and provides four spurs, one for digital components, two for low level components and one for high level components such as the 350 watts/channel ( total) power amps. It is wired with 2.5 mm three core to reduce impedance.Whatever, it does sound good 
.
Many years ago I did try an early parallel filter but found it to offer no improvement or degrade rather than improve the sound. However that was then and modern products may be better.
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Thanks Peter. I also have a dedicated power line for my audio system with a Doepke circuit breaker on top of it. The line is wired with a 4.0 mm wire in order to reduce impedance.
I’m now waiting to receive a Plixir Elite BAC 3000 balanced power preconditioner, which will sit on top of the chain and serve as a foundation for the entire system.
My doubt resides on the fact that all my Vivaldi stack as well as the preamp is currently plugged into a Transparent Audio Reference Isolator, which I’m sure contains some type of filter. Wondering 
f that reduces dynamics somehow. Will need to try alternatives.
I just checked ( years since the installation) and my wiring is 4mm too .
Looking forward to hearing how you get on but unfortunately I doubt that I will be able to follow the same path.
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Going back to this old thread,
My question for those of you who use a power conditioner in their systems: have you connected the conditioner at the top of the whole system so that every unit (including power amp) depends from it, or have you connected your power amp on another power line?
In my case I have a truly balanced mains transformer (PliXir ELITE BAC 3000V) at the top of my chain so that every unit (including my power amp) depends from it. I’m curious to understand whether connecting the power amp to another power line may improve dynamics/ general SQ.
Thanks.
Franco
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I have a Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR combination driving everything except the music server. If I could afford an Shunyata Everest for each speaker on top of this, that’s what I would do, but it works extremely well as it is
I would then put each Everest plus the Typhon/Triton on their own circuit, however this is tied into a bigger project of soundproofing the floors as I don’t want to take the flooring up twice!
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Not in this thread, but I am interested in how you will do that! I have to do it too.
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I’ll remember to start a new thread on this topic tomorrow
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I have dedicated circuits for each amp and for preamp and for all source gear. No amps go through power conditioners but everything else does. This is based on discussion w dan d’agostino who said his circuits are built to run on line power without filters with no restriction on draw. I run dans gear so i heed this advice. I will also mention dan now runs his gear from a strom tank.
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I just installed a Nordost QB10, fed from the wall socket by a Nordost Odin 2 power cord.
I have a long history tinkering with power because I think that power + vibration/resonance suppression are more important than the rest of the audio equipment (within reason).
Until recently I used an Isotek Mosaic Genesis combined, where necessary, with Nordost QB8s on Nordost kones.They performed brilliantly at their price point, greatly lowering the noise floor and improving the sound stage (air, width and depth) and flow (less hifi, more music).
All my equipment, including loudspeakers, sits on ACapella bases (which act as vibration/resonance sinks). Townshend bases act almost as effectively, at a much lower price point. Almost.
I understand Isotek is discontinuing the excellent Mosaic Genesis. It probably performed too well, making many of Isotek’s other products redundant?
What about the QB10? I am forced to admit that the QB10 is a game changer. I removed my Isotek Mosaic Genesis, my QB8’s, my Kones, my Qk1s and Qv2s, a number of connecting power cords. I connected everything directly to the QB10 (it has 10 sockets)… Including the battery powering the belt-drive motor of my record player, to great effect (what is going on?).
And finally, finally, finally, my dCS Vivaldi 3 piece suit started sounding like decent vinyl. That is, true to the intentions and passions of the recorded artists.
I am in a state of blithfull shock.
Given the fact that I think that 50% of the investment in audio should go to power + vibration/resonance suppression, I must confess that the QB10 makes total sense in a dCS layout.
And no, I have no experience with other power management systems. And no, I have no commercial interests in Nordost. And yes, I believe Nordost products are generally grossly overpriced, so try buying 2nd hand!
Do not believe a word I say. Just ask to audition the QB10 at home. If you don’t hear a major upgrade to your system, think game changer as I mentioned above, fine! You saved yourself an eyewatering GBP 18.000!
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Congrats!
I’d love to hear how the Nordost compares to something like a Shunyata Everest or a StromTank, but given the cost of these things, I suspect not many people get to audition them side-by-side.
I guess it’s the kind of thing very high end dealers might be able to arrange.